Off the beaten track: Hondarribia is a witches' paradise

8 July 2021 | Out of route

Magical ideas for a wonderful day out in Hondarribia

Get to know this medieval seaside town just half an hour from Donosti and enjoy it with all your senses.

Hondarribia casts an undeniable spell over its visitors... Perhaps it has something to do with the fact that witches used to roam freely there, until they were denounced and banished after an inquisitorial process in 1611. They were not the only witches in the Basque Country - as Alex de la Iglesia recalled in his 2013 film The Witches of Zugarramurdi - but we like to think that they are still, in some way, among us. They have nowadays become an example of freedom and enjoyment, of connection with nature and ancestral wisdom but, what would the witches of Hondarribia do if they could enjoy this seaside town today?

The old quarter. You can discover the streets they used to walk through every day in the 21st century, thanks to the Hondarribia Cultural Tour. In it, and for an hour and a half, you will discover the walled old town, with its narrow cobbled streets and the fishermen's quarter, Portu Auzoa. A guided tour costs 8 euros and you can find all the information here.

Dream beaches. If you prefer to see the same unchanging landscapes, you can visit its coves or urban beaches. The urban beach of Hondarribia, of 800 metres long; Playa de los Frailes, spectacular and located on the slopes of Mount Jaizkibel, surrounded by cliffs; Kapelaundi beach, a little wilder, with wind and rocks, where nudism is common, and which is a real paradise for diving lovers; you can also visit Errota Sein, to the west of Cape Higer, with its pebbles and rocks, very quiet although access on foot is a little more complicated. Artzuportu, Sisurko, Eretzin Zabala... you are spoilt for choice!

Places that are the stuff of legends. Witches draw their powers from Nature, so it is not unreasonable to think that, in their day, they went there to gather herbs and recharge their energy. One way to see what they saw is to go on a two-hour horseback ride, to appreciate the landscape calmly and take a mental picture of the beauty that surrounds us: a magical plan.

Delicacies of the land. OF COURSE, you can't miss the food. Hondarribia's cuisine in all its glory can be found in its restaurants, which prioritise local produce of unquestionable quality: the Arroka Berri, with its fish from the Bay of Txingudi or its mushrooms from the forests of Guipuzcoa; the  Asador Sutan - Bodega Hiruzta, a beautiful place among vineyards, which serves local, seasonal cuisine, and where they are especially committed to the promotion of the local grape, the Hondarrabi Zuri. La Hermandad de pescadores, opened in 1938 in the heart of the city, is a reference point for Basque and maritime gastronomy. The Alameda, with a Michelin star; the Abarka Jatetxea, "an experience for the five senses"; the Gran Sol, an iconic bar in Hondarribia, with its always full terrace and its genuine dishes...

A sea of possibilities. If water is what casts a spell on you, you can cross to Hendaye by boat, on a trip that will take you to France in just seven minutes. Or perhaps choose one of the aquatic activities available in the bay of Txingudi, from scuba diving to water skiing, fishing trips, kayaking on the Bidasoa and many more.

There is so much to see and try in Hondarribia, but we'll have to ask the witches to tell us all their secrets bit by bit...

If you feel like taking your coven to any of these places we, at Hotel Zinema7, will be happy to give you all the necessary indications, help you plan your route, and try to book the activities and restaurants for you. We want you to take a little bit of the magic of this land with you!

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