Three Donosti restaurants that don't have a Michelin star because they don't need one

8 July 2021 | Gastronomy

The best kept secrets of Donosti, a gastronomic paradise

The saying goes «Gose ez bazara, ez dago zorionik jaterakoan» —if you're not hungry, there's no joy in eating—, but there are three restaurants where even if you're not hungry you can find joy in eating.

Marmitako, bacalao al pilpil, pintxos, piperrada, Donosti-style sea bass, goxoa, even the humble gildas! It is a truth universally acknowledged that there is no way to eat badly in Euskadi. And if the starting point is «good», just imagine what excellence is. Have your mouths watered yet?

In addition to the more or less well-known typical dishes, Euskadi is home to four restaurants with three Michelin stars: Arzak, Akelarre, Azurmendi and Martín Berasategui. And Donosti is home to the first three, making it a gastronomic paradise in every sense.

When the bar is set so high, you can imagine the passion the people in this country feel for  their food, a passion conveyed to all those who visit it. 

Here are three restaurants that do not have a Michelin star, nor do they need one. The selection of top quality products and an elaboration that goes from the traditional to the experimental, but always with the base of the unique raw material that we find here make them exceptional.

Old-school Donostiarras

To begin with, the Rekondo, a classic among Donostiarras that cultivates a genuine Basque cuisine under the guidance of chef Iñaki Arrieta. It was in the Caserío de Marticoene —on the slopes of Mount Igeldo, overlooking the bay of Donosti— where Txomin began to serve sandwiches and bottles of cider to hikers on their way to the chapel of Lourdes. Also, and without anyone realising it, his passion for wine turned the establishment's menu into a veritable wine bible, the best kept secret of a modest restaurant in appearance. When, in 1992, Txomin's daughter, Lourdes, took over and, without altering its essence, she turned it into a restaurant «of elite traditional cuisine», in her own words. The meat and fish grill, the carabinero carpaccio with pistachio vinaigrette and guacamole, the baked txangurro or the rice with clams, are just some of the examples of dishes that should be accompanied by one of Txomin's wines.

«Gastronomic hallucination in Gros»

Next is  Xarma Cook & Culture, which describes itself on its Instagram page as «gastronomic hallucination in Gros», quite the statement of intent. Chefs Aizpea Oihaneder and Xabier Díez have an irreverent and modern touch, but they also offer more traditional dishes: from their puturrú de foie to their grilled meats, including pintxos such as the piquillo parrillero and the Iberian sirloin tataki, Xarma is a real treat that you can't miss, and it's also suitable for all budgets. And if you happen to coincide with the Jazzaldia, you might even be able to enjoy a concert while you «hallucinate» with the food!

Sacred grill 

Last but not least, a true temple of the grill: the Asador Portuetxe. When, 39 years ago, it opened its doors in a caserío more than four centuries old, it did so with a single objective in mind: to offer diners the best of Basque produce, using a most traditional technique to prepare them. Among its fish: Portuetxe cod, Pelayo-style baby squid, grouper hegalas or the incomparable sautéed kokotxas. A marvellous beef cutlet and also their grilled mushrooms complement a menu that celebrates fire and embers with true devotion

Eating is one of the most important and unique experiences you will have in Donosti. If you want your stay at Hotel Zinema7 to be absolutely unforgettable, ask us: we can give you directions on how to get to these three restaurants (or advise you on many more) and help you book a table.

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