1 January 1970
Storms, aircraft carriers and, every year between June and October, the bonito season in full swing
The sea is the centre of our culture and gastronomy and, for centuries, our livelihood.
The sea is venerated in Donosti. It has been lived and enjoyed for centuries, so it is not surprising that today we appreciate everything it has given us through museums, legends and activities that bring our visitors closer to maritime culture. We are going to let you in on three secrets so that you can better understand how important it is for us...
Perfect storms
One of the stories that we, the people from Donosti, treasure about our relationship with the sea is that of José María Zubía, known as Aita Mari (1809-1866). This humble boat skipper was known for helping fishermen trapped by storms. His bravery and generosity are still remembered, as when he did not hesitate to set out to sea, along with nine volunteers, to rescue three sailors he had seen falling into the water after a tremendous gale suddenly arose off the coast of Gipuzkoa. He died trying to save the lives of some fishermen from a txalupa that was trying to enter the Bay of La Concha, in the middle of a storm. He managed to do so, but a blow from the sea dragged him down forever. You can see his bust on the quay, erected in gratitude for his life. A street near the port and an old tuna boat converted into a humanitarian maritime rescue ship also bear his name.
An aircraft carrier in the harbour
The old fish market, which ceased to operate as such in 2012, is known as the "aircraft carrier" and has recently been remodelled. It is now home to Kofradia -Itsas Etxea, the fishermen's house, where they will talk to you about everything related to the fishing activity carried out in the Bay of Biscay and most important of all: you can taste the inshore fish caught by the local arrantzales (fishermen). The refurbishment of the building has been selected as a candidate for the Mies van der Rohe European Union Prize for Contemporary Architecture 2022, one more good reason to visit it.
Bonito del Norte
The relationship between Donosti and Gipuzkoa and the sea revolves around its best-known product: the tuna fish we call bonito. But first, a clarification. It is important to know that not all tuna is "Bonito del Norte"; to deserve this designation, the fish must weigh more than four kilos and be caught in the Bay of Biscay, using traditional fishing methods that spare the fish from suffering. It has an elongated and compressed body, a silvery blue colour and a belly with iridescent reflections and, if it is fresh, its flesh must be firm, smell of the sea and be a bright pink colour.
As it is a migratory fish, it is subject to seasonality and the best time to eat it is from June to November. But let's get down to business. Here you have the best options for tasting the best of the best bonito:
1. Kofradia Itxas Etxea. We have already mentioned it before. You can't miss the building, the fish and the marmitako.
2. Sebastián. Right in the heart of Donosti's quayside, it is a hive of people and activity.
3. La Rampa. To make you look like a true connoisseur of the city, it's a sure hit!
4. Casa Urola. An unmissable classic. You have to go to be able to tell about it afterwards.
5.- Rekondo. It shares with the previous ones an exceptional product, but it also has a spectacular wine cellar and views to die for.
If you need us to tell you how to get to the old fish market, the restaurants or other places related to the sea in Donosti -such as the Maritime Museum or the Aquarium-, just ask at the reception of Zinema7. We will make sure you get to port safe and sound!
